Costa Rica
February 2027
And we are off.....
Leaving not too too early at 5:00am
Landing at SJO is easy. Although this is the largest airport in CR it does not feel too big. We crossed immigration in a half hour at the busiest time of year, at the busiest time of day. We were sorteted into the family lines of immigration which I think is the quicker of the routes.
Leaving the luggage pickup area and heading out side there are large lines of drivers picking up. Just slow down and pay attention.
We didn’t stay or stop in San Jose. Everything that I have been told indicates that it’s not the best place to stay in CR. Not that it’s bad…just that there are better places to spend your time.
We were met by our driver outside the airport. PrivateTravelCR.com
We were taken just out side the city to a great lunch spot called El Jardin. This is a touristy kind of spot with butterfly garden ( the big blue butterflys are Morphos) and farm animals. The lunch was great, a simple buffet with local choices but my picky eater Fiona was really impressed or just starving, and it was a fun little intro to the country. Lunch was $25 for both of us.
Then is was a 3 hour trip up into the mountains to Monteverde. If you get car sick, bring patches or meds!!! The landscape is amazing. Fiona slept but I couldn’t keep my eyes off the rolling mountains.
On the way our driver spotted a troop of howler monkeys. We stopped for Fiona to take pics of our first CR wildlife experience.
You will know when you start to enter into the high terrain. There are rainbows everywhere, just little patches of them and vistas that I really can’t put into words. Entering this area, I knew that we had chosen the right location for our first stop.
Monteverde....The cloud forest
Hotel Belmar: Stepping out of the car on to the grounds of the hotel instantly settled me. The stress of the US, the job, the daily, and the travel was now behind. In front of us is a sweeping view over the canopy to the pacific ocean. Dispite it being sunny, there is rain dancing on the wind. And although you can feel the moisture in the air, we don’t seem to get wet. Bits of rainbow play between the drifting rain and bird songs. Ahh peace.
The hotel is seemingly Swiss inspired from the outside. Stepping inside we are greeted with a lounge/reception area filled with local sculpture and art. The staff presents us with warm towels and “monkey water” a blend of ginger and juices in small wooden cups. Check in is seamless and we are to be in the Chalet building which is just across a driveway. There are three main buildings here. All small. The main building houses the main restaurant and three floors of rooms. The building behind it consists of rooms only, and the chalet is two floors of rooms with a common space, coffee shop, yoga studio on the main floor. I would go back to the Chalet building. We used the common space for painting and relaxing with a smoothie and sweet treat after adventures.
Our room is the most basic of the hotel’s offerings. A king bed, oversized chair, desk and fridge filled with locally made treats. And of course coffee! The balcony overlooks the woods and so many birds and happy butterflys. The bathroom is plenty large with a massive shower. We are very happy with the space. Note: no TV, no A/C
Day 4: El Tigre Waterfall hike
A 5k hike mainly down hill though what looks like Jurassic park. I half expected a T-rex to come crashing though the jungle! Absolutely wonderful, over hanging bridges winding by so many waterfalls. The trails were empty which added to the mystic of the place. We opted to ride horses back up the hill opposed to 4×4. The large package includes lunch.
The lunch is welcome and warm. Again, it is simple food done well. I opt for a beer and Fiona has a hot chocolate!
NEEDS: waterproof hiking shoes, dry bag backpack, water, camera, passport numbers for sign in
DONT: plan anything after excedpt a hot tub and a hot drink!
Weather: 60s, rain on and off
Day 5: Salvatura Park
We chose this zip lining park over the others for their diversity of experiences. The zip lines range from a few meters to 1 km long. It is two hours of zipping. There are sloth, butterfly, and reptile exhibits. I figured that at least we could see them in rescue habitat if not in the wild. And lastly, the hanging bridges – beautiful. They deserved more time than we gave them after the long day
NEEDS: small backpack, water bottle, sneakers, long pants
NOTES: pic package offered by the facility is only OK, there is a cafe on site. This is a long long long day
Weather: low 60s, windy, cold very overcast
Day 6: Birding
This was a tour organized though the hotel. Juan our guide has a love for the forest that is infectious. He was amazing with Fiona and answered her machine gun questions. We were able to see a quatzel. Again the forest is just magical. All of the guides help each other leaving markers and indications where a major animal has been seen.
NEEDS: small pack, extra batteries for your camera, scope, hiking shoes
Notes: There is a local cafe just down the hill from the entrance. If you have the energy this is a great place for lunch
Weather: high 60s, sunny on and off shower
Day 7: Farm and Night Hike
In the morning we took a tour of the hotel’s farm. We were transported from the hotel lobby 45 minutes away to the farm. We are greeted by the farm workers and about a dozen horses. We take a quick tour of the barn that houses just born sheep, goats, and cows which we milk!
Then it’s time for a ride. Our ride takes us through pastures and wooded areas and over a few streams.
We break for a homemade snack. We take a tour of the farm. Everything made or harvested on the farm is used at the hotel.
That evening we go to the night time experience hosted by the hotel. This hike is a forest immersion. We climb up a 200 ft tree and have a snack and beverage. We watch the forest come alive as the sun sets over the canopy. What a sight. We don head lamps and head down to the forest floor to explore the cloud forest at night. Can you spot the foot long sick bug???
Off to the Volcano
Day 8: Monteverde to La Fortuna:
On our last morning we made a stop to the giant hot tub and also to the artist’s coop just down the hill. I strongly recommend this. It is one of two places on the trip that had truly authentic, local crafts and art.
Then it was on to stop number too; the town of La Fortuna which is at the bottom of Arenal volcano.
We ended up in CR during a low pressure system that brought weeks of rain to the place. We had fun regardless but it was unseasonably cold and rainy. We never did see the volcano although our hotel was just at the base of it
After Monteverde, La Fortuna seemed like a let down. This is THE tourist hub and you can feel it. The locals here were not engaging. The tourists seemed like folks you would encounter at Disney or on a cruise. Ie., not real travelers or nature lovers. If you are scared to travel internationally- this is your place. If you like to experience the “real” Costa, this is not the spot!
That being said, our horse experience was really, real. And amazing but also not for those that need to be coddled.
Coming from Belmar. This hotel felt like a let down. The service here was OK. It is clear that this hotel sees a lot more people who do not stay as long. The reasons I picked this hotel were: on site hot springs, view of volcano and it wasn’t too expensive. The hot springs were great. There are 6 different pools of varying sizes and temperatures ranging from hot tub size to winding rivers to large pools with a swim up bar. Each pool has its temperature posted and range from 70F to 120F. The pools wind through lush plantings with little hidden areas. It is a great place to explore and Fiona did enjoy it. The pools are drained and cleaned each early morning. The hotel does sell passes to folks that are not staying on site. The restaurant is ok and I think that is generous.
Day 9: Areal Horse Tour
I cannot say enough good things about this trip. Enrique’s barn is about 30 minutes outside La Fortuna and I was a little worried when we first pulled up. This is a barn, not a tourist attraction and that is clear. No one was there and it was concerning. Then a trailer pulled up and 5 horses, three dogs and two people all mosey into the barn (the animals just went, no leads, just went into the barn!)
We spent some time feeding the horses. Enrique selected our horses based on our personalities. We then did some work in the indoor arena learning about horsemanship.
Then it was off to the trails. We rode for about 2 hours through fields, and on dirt roads. Enrique pointed out wildlife and explained the area. His son rode with us (and all the dogs followed). He picked us fruit right off the tree on the way.
We stopped for lunch at the river, prepared by Enricique’s wife and brought down by his nephew. I think this was the best meal we had all trip.
After we swam the horses in the river. What an experience.
Then a 30 minute ride home
Day 10: We elected not to do anything today. We enjoyed the pools at the hotel and bummed around. It was a good decision as we had a LOT coming up!!
Day 11: Travel on to OSA
We decided to fly to our next destination, Puerto Jiménez on the Osa Peninsula, rather than make the roughly eight-hour drive.
The airport in La Fortuna is incredibly relaxed — essentially one large open-air room with a bar, bathrooms, and public seating. There’s absolutely no need to arrive hours early; 30–40 minutes before departure is plenty of time.
Sansa is one of Costa Rica’s two domestic airlines. No matter where you’re flying within the country, most routes connect back through SJO. The planes are small “puddle jumpers,” which I personally love — though they’re not for everyone. Because you fly lower, the views of the mountains, coastline, and rainforest are incredible. You do feel the turbulence more, but the scenery makes it worth it.
Osa:
The Osa Peninsula has two distinct sides. The Pacific side is home to a handful of tiny towns and remote airstrips. I had read that the water on that side tends to be rougher, so we chose to stay in Puerto Jiménez along the Golfo Dulce instead.
The Golfo Dulce is one of only four tropical fjords in the world, creating an incredibly unique ecosystem. Its calm, protected waters serve as a breeding and calving ground for larger marine mammals, adding to the area’s incredible biodiversity. The peninsula is also home to Corcovado National Park, one of the most protected and biologically intense regions in Costa Rica – and home to 3% of the WORLD’s biodiversity.
This area was a huge priority for me. Of the three places we visited, it felt the least touristy and the most centered around wildlife and raw nature — exactly what I was hoping for.
Iguana Lodge:
This is the place. I absolutely fell in love with this lodge. It’s rustic in the best possible way — immersed in nature while still having everything I wanted. From the moment you pull onto the property, you’re surrounded by dense, lush jungle. The open-air reception area blends seamlessly into the landscape, feeling more like part of the rainforest than a hotel lobby. It’s where you check in, relax, or grab kayaks to explore the gulf.
To the right, a beautifully maintained but still wild jungle path leads to the large pool area, designed to feel natural and tucked into the environment. There’s also a sun deck, hot tub, and bathrooms nearby. Just beyond sits the yoga studio — a stunning two-story open-air structure with artistic fountains, lounging spaces, and an upstairs spa area that feels completely hidden within the trees.
To the left of reception is the main lodge building. The restaurant occupies the open-air lower level, while eight guest rooms sit upstairs overlooking the grounds. A sweeping lawn stretches toward the beach, dotted with palm trees and hammocks before giving way to the black sand shoreline.
The wildlife here is nonstop. Scarlet macaws and parakeets fly overhead in loud, colorful flocks. Monkeys move through the trees all around you. Crabs and shorebirds scatter across the beach, while iguanas, bats, and countless lizards make regular appearances around the property. Everywhere you look, something is alive and moving.
The owners, Lauren and Toby, are part of what makes the place feel so special. They’re always around — eating with guests, playing cards, or wandering barefoot through the property trying to hand-feed wild parakeets. The entire lodge feels personal, relaxed, and deeply connected to the environment around it.
But my favorite part of all was what happened each evening. Guests naturally gathered at the open-air restaurant after a day of exploring, sharing stories of wildlife sightings and adventures from the jungle or sea. We met people from all over the world, all drawn there for the same reason — a love of nature and the wonder of experiencing a place that still feels truly wild.
Day 12: Relax Day
Swimming in the ocean and pool. Exploring the grounds. A little art work before dinner.
Day 13: Corcovado National Park
This is a long day — but completely unforgettable.
Our morning started at 4:30 a.m., with our taxi driver, Oscar, picking us up at 5:00. We headed into town first to grab breakfast pastries from a local bakery before making our way to the docks to meet our guide, Signar, and board the boat bound for Sirena Station.
The ride itself felt like part of the adventure. We passed Boobie Island, home to brown booby birds, while enormous frigatebirds soared overhead riding the ocean winds.
Landing at Sirena is fast, wet, and a little chaotic. The boat backs up toward shore and everyone climbs out directly into waist-high water before making the trek across a rocky beach to the ranger station. Once there, you check in with your passport number and are assigned a trail. The goal is to get ahead of the crowds and deeper into the forest as quickly as possible.
The hike begins around 7:00 a.m. and continues until noon when you return to Sirena Station for lunch. The meal is simple but perfect after hours in the jungle heat. Some visitors choose to stay overnight at the station — and honestly, next time I might do exactly that.
And the heat? It is HOT. Really, intensely hot and humid. But every second of it was worth the effort and expense, which is admittedly high. Visiting Corcovado requires a licensed guide, and tours can be difficult to secure because access is so tightly regulated.
There is a small gift shop at Sirena where you can buy water, but bring plenty of your own along with non-DEET bug repellent — wipes worked especially well for us.
The wildlife was beyond anything I could have imagined. Animals were everywhere. Monkeys crashed through the trees overhead, scarlet macaws screamed across the canopy, and every few minutes our guide was pointing out something new we would have completely missed on our own. Signar was incredibly knowledgeable and taught us so much about the plants, animals, and delicate ecosystem surrounding us.
As if the day hadn’t already been magical enough, the boat ride back gave us one final surprise: humpback whales and dolphins surfacing alongside us in the gulf.
Tips: Bring lots of water and some cash. Strap on sandles are a must
Weather: 95′ humid, sunny
Day 15: Dolphin Tour
We shared this tour with two other couples from the hotel, making for a small and relaxed group as we explored the Golfo Dulce by boat.
The wildlife sightings were incredible from start to finish. We saw bottlenose dolphins, a massive pod of nearly 300 tropical spotted dolphins, and countless rays gliding through the water. But the absolute highlight was spotting a whale shark — an unforgettable moment none of us expected. We were allowed to hop in and snorkel for an hour or so.
This ended up being one of our favorite excursions of the trip. A perfect half-day on the water, surrounded by wildlife, capped off with fresh pineapple on the boat
Tips: Bring bathing suit
Weather: 90′ Sunny
Day 16: Chocolate Tour
This tour takes place on a cacao farm that has been in the same family for four generations, and you can feel that history everywhere you go. In addition to cacao, the family grows a wide variety of medicinal plants, and the tour winds through lush groves and gardens while teaching you about the uses and properties of each one.
Along the way, you learn the entire chocolate-making process — from cacao pod to finished chocolate — and the best part is that you get to taste it at every stage. Fresh cacao fruit, roasted beans, ground chocolate… every step is hands-on and delicious.
More than just a tour, this felt like being welcomed into a family tradition. There is so much pride, love, and history woven into the land and the experience itself.
Tips: Bring cash
Weather: 90′ Sunny
Day 16: Andy’s Tree Adventure
Andy is an American expat who moved to Costa Rica decades ago after earning a biology degree from University of California. His tour is wild, rugged, and absolutely not for the faint of heart.
The “trails” are really more like riverbeds. The adventure starts with hiking upstream over rocks and through rushing water — and, if you’re brave enough, snacking on termites for a little protein boost along the way. From there, you scramble over massive boulders to reach a waterfall-fed pool hidden deep in the jungle.
And that’s only the beginning. The route continues up a cliff face using little more than your footing and a rope for support before eventually arriving at the main event: a towering 300-foot tree waiting to be climbed.
The entire experience feels raw, untamed, and completely unforgettable.
Oh — and keep an eye out for the adorable little bats sleeping in the crevices of the tree
Final Words:
I will return to this place. This place of wildlife and beauty, of kind people and adventure. Of calm and exhilaration. I will not return to La fortuna. It is just not us – too tourist, too fake.
Monteverde and Porto Jimenez have a place in my heart and I will dream of iridescent quetzals, and morpho butterflies riding the rain through rainbows and over endless waterfalls. I will hear the call of howler monkeys and macaws while walking black sand beaches along the shores where whale sharks and dolphins play. See you soon CR
The Budget:
